![]() ![]() A good isolator will show no current flow.ĥ. Isolators, the "R" terminal for group 3 isolators). ![]() With the other probe, terminals "A", #1, #2 (the "E" terminal for 3A Hold one probe on the aluminum heat sink, being sure there is contact by scratching through the protective coating. A good isolator will allow no current flow from "A" to #1, #2 or "R" and will show current flow from "E" to "A".Ĥ. Next, hold the Black* probe on the "A" and with the Red* probe touch terminal #1 and #2 (terminal "E" and "R", if used). Isolators (group 2), and the "R" terminal for (group 3) isolators.Ī good isolator will show a current flow from "A" to #1, #2 and "R", and no current flow to "E".ģ. Using a needle movement ohmmeter RX-1 scale or a digital ohmmeterĭiode scale, hold the Red* probe on the terminal "A" and with the Black* probe touch terminal #1 and #2, and the "E" terminal for 3A Here is the Original Sure Power testing procedure:Ģ. In Ford applications there is a fuse inline installed between isolator and regulator! Check this! Maybe the regulator must be replaced? It should be connected with the regulator of the alternator. This one is responsible for the correct output voltage. Since it is all solid state it is very unlikely that the isolator has problems.Įspecially the "E" input. If you want four pages of detailed explanation of why you don't want a diode or alternator controller based system, read this: ībasso, you got a pretty nice and decent model there. My rig has not been plugged into shore power for weeks. I routinely see charge rates of over 150A at idle and, with any sunlight at all, my 600Ah batteries are normally at 100% every night. I have a Blue Sky but others prefer Morning Star. Install the solar controller of your choice. Doing it again, I would simply use a Blue Sea 7620. I installed a Magnum Smart Battery Combiner and a Blue Sea Solenoid because I wanted a high voltage cut out. (I used the latter as I have two starter batteries.) This should be adequate for up to 250A of alternator, at least. Upgrade and fuse my cables between the starter battery(s) and the camper battery(s) to 2/0 or a pair of 1/0. If your van runs at 14-14.2v, then neither the CTEK nor the Sterling will do you any good. ![]()
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